By DON McINTOSH, Associate Editor
The City of Portland added its name to the list of “sweat-free”
governments Aug. 29 when City Council approved a resolution backed
by a coalition of unions and community groups.
Under the resolution, a nine-member committee will hammer out details
of a Sweat-Free Procurement Policy over the next year, which would
then come back to the Council for approval. The way it would work,
all city uniform and apparel vendors would have to disclose the
name and location of their factories. Then a multi-government consortium
would verify that the goods are made under humane working conditions.
An oversight committee would report annually on contractors’
compliance with the resolution.
“This is a huge step in making sure taxpayers in Portland
aren’t paying for poverty wages and inhumane working conditions,”
testified Carol Stahlke, president of American Federation of State,
County & Municipal Employees (AFSCME) Local 189, the largest
of the unions representing City employees.
“I have 600 members working at the City of Portland,”
added Richard Beetle, business manager of Laborers Local 483, which
represents city parks, maintenance and water treatment workers.
“When we put on our uniforms and wear city-supplied hats and
T-shirts, we need to be assured these products are not produced
under sweatshop conditions.”
A sweatshop is a factory that violates labor and safety laws.
Chie Abad, a former sweatshop worker in Saipan, Northern Marianas
Islands, told City Council about her experience working 14-hour
days seven days a week in an apparel factory. Workers drank rainwater,
Abad said, and lived in “a squalid, overcrowded barracks with
a tin roof.” Women who got pregnant were fired. And that was
in a United States territory, making clothing marked “Made
in USA.”
Abad was later part of a lawsuit against Liz Claiborne, Calvin Klein,
and other major labels that used the factory; the brands paid $20
million back wages in a 2002 out-of-court settlement. She now works
for the San Francisco-based group Global Exchange publicizing sweatshop
abuses. Global Exchange also paid to staff the Portland Sweatfree
Campaign.
Portland’s City Council resolution came about thanks to a
year’s patient labor by the campaign’s organizer, Deborah
Schwartz, who pulled together the labor-community coalition and
met repeatedly with city staff and aides to the resolution’s
sponsor, Portland Commissioner Sam Adams. The campaign collected
about 1,000 postcards of support, and was endorsed by 14 local unions
and over 30 churches and community groups.
At the hearing, Oregon Labor Commissioner Dan Gardner, State Sen.
Brad Avakian, and State Rep. Brad Witt also testified in support.
Even a vendor spoke in favor. Roger Heldman of Blumenthal Uniforms
& Equipment testified to City Council that his company’s
police and fire uniforms are made in union factories in Kentucky
and North Carolina. Uniforms have been the last holdout for the
American apparel industry, Heldman said, which otherwise has been
almost entirely displaced by low-wage foreign competition.
With the resolution, Portland commits to become part of the State
and Local Government Sweetfree Consortium, to which it will contribute
about $20,000 a year — 1 percent of its approximately $2 million
annual uniform and apparel budget. The consortium will start work
when it has $100 million in purchasing power. So far, it’s
about a tenth of the way there, Schwartz said, with San Francisco
and Berkeley, California fully on board, and several other cities
and states on the way.
The Portland resolution was approved on a 3-0 vote; Commissioners
Adams, Randy Leonard, and Erik Sten. Mayor Tom Potter and Commissioner
Dan Saltzman were away on vacation.